Climbing expedition, Djangart, Kyrgyzstan – 2010

A group of young climbers in July 2010 aims to make first ascents and establish new climbing routes in an unfrequented sub-range of Kyrgyzstan’s Central Kokshaal-Too Range of the Tien Shan Mountains, known as the Djangart. The mountains of Djangart are largely unexplored by locals and foreigners alike. Due to their remoteness and the lack of infrastructure only three previous expeditions have visited the Djangart valleys; two Russian (in 1932 and 2008) and one British (in 2003).

In March 2010 the JWCT awarded £750 to the team which aims to establish new routes of a technical and demanding nature incorporating steep mixed rock and ice climbing on the many virgin peaks that form the Kyrgyz-Chinese border. Steve Beckwith (a climbing team member) said “we will ascend in a pure ‘alpine’ style, negating the use of fixed ropes, bolts or siege tactics; we aim to climb fast and light in a highly committing ‘ground up’ style ascent, carrying the bare minimum of equipment to increase our speed and endurance. We will ensure the highest environmental standards are maintained during these efforts, leaving no artefacts to tell of our passing.”

Whilst in-country the team will support the Alpine Fund, a small non-governmental organisation that supports disadvantaged children by introducing them to mountains and encouraging the utilisation of this resource as a sustainable means of income through tourism and guiding. They have arranged to share some of their experiences with children by giving a series of workshops on climbing techniques and safety as well as donating equipment and taking the children climbing.

Steve added "the contribution from the JWCT has made a pivotal difference to the feasibility of the project, allowing us to execute it in the low impact style we had planned. In addition to this we are now able to support an intern student from the Alpine Fund who will be able to accompany us.”

Find out more about the expedition at www.kyrgyzstan2010.com.

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